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This article was printed in the March 8, 2008, edition of the Hawaii Marine. 'Wild West' of Pakistan
By Zack Baddorf, Special to the Hawaii Marine
PESHAWAR, Pakistan
— In all likelihood, you watch the news and associate Pakistan with
Iraq and Afghanistan – suicide bombings throughout the country and
militants giving the country an image of extremism, terrorism and
lawlessness.
From
the Pakistani perspective, while foreign troops don’t march through
Islamabad as they do in Baghdad and Kabul, Pakistanis by and large feel
like the American military is actually occupying their country.
The
majority of average Pakistanis I speak with, regardless of age,
education or class, shares a commonality: hatred of President Pervez
Musharaff and hatred of American foreign policies. (They’ll always say,
at the end, they don’t hate Americans.) Pakistanis, especially in the
“Wild West” of the nation’s tribal areas, are even quicker to blame
American leaders than their own government.
During
my visit to Pakistan to report on the country’s elections, I spent a
few days in the Federally Administered Tribal Areas, commonly referred
to as FATA. Prior to passing from the border town of Peshawar
through the Khyber Pass, to blend in I donned my tailor-made, dark blue
shalwar kameez, the Pashtuns’ traditional clothing that is basically a
loose fitting set of pajamas. On my head, I placed my chitrali cap, a wool hat with a rolled brim, and took off my glasses, a rarity in these parts. I never once doubted my safety.
On
my first night near the Afghan border, I spent the evening drinking a
locally-fermented vodka and American whisky sitting cross-legged by
candlelight with tribal elders, the real powers of the area. We spent
the night talking about politics – everyone in Pakistan is a
philosopher – and got nowhere.
Like
other Pakistanis, the tribal men spouted conspiracy theories - Jews
evacuated the World Trade Center prior to the 9/11 attacks, President
Bush wants to kill all Muslims, and more – but we inevitably talked
about the West’s foreign policy in Afghanistan. They argued, some in
very eloquent English and others in Pashto through their friends’
translation, that American troops – actually, the “Americans” include
the British, the French, all of NATO – in Afghanistan are only
aggravating the situation across the border and here in the tribal
areas. They said too many thousands of Afghans and Pakistani tribal
people (mostly Pashtuns) have died.
They
blame the Taliban, too. One elderly man gnarled his face and put his
hands out like claws as he described the Wahhabi militants – the
strict, extremist doctrine of Islam that al-Qaeda and the Taliban
adhere to. They’re inhuman, he said, and are practically monsters. But
he, like most in the region, wants to face the Taliban alone, not with
foreign troops. If the Taliban come, we will fight them and win, the
tribal elders assured me.
But would they? Or could they?
One
Western military official told me there’s a "tremendous Taliban
strength in Quetta [one of Pakistan’s largest cities and a provincial
capital] despite denials from Pakistani officials." If the Taliban have
penetrated Quetta, could they not take Islamabad? Pakistanis, the
official said, need to acknowledge that they can’t handle the problem
of al-Qaeda and the Taliban alone. With the weakness of both the Afghan
and Pakistani militaries, they won’t be able to “hold back the tide.”
It’s
really a non-issue of whether American, i.e. NATO, forces would
withdraw from Afghanistan. They won’t. They’re in it for the long haul
there. The U.S. has poured $11 billion into Pakistan in military aid since 2001 but the same Western official says in his opinion the money hasn’t been effectively used.
While
the word on the Pakistani street is that Musharaff is doing “the West’s
bidding,” this fight against the Taliban and al-Qaeda in Afghanistan by
NATO and in Pakistan by its own military is not just a fight for the West.
“Honesty,” the military official said, is necessary amongst the Pakistanis. If the West loses so will Pakistan.
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